CENTRAL AFRICAN EXPLORER (Ref: ZT)
Zambia, Tanzania & Malawi
(22 DAYS LAND ONLY)
Revised January 2005
The first Europeans to explore this unique “undiscovered“ interior of Africa were the Portuguese; Candido da Costa sighted Lake Malawi in 1846. The famous David Livingstone travelled most extensively in this area in search of the source of the Nile. We start our adventure in Zambia, “the real Africa“, which beckons to the intrepid, the adventurous, to those who want to step off the conveyor belt of mass tourism. We follow in the footsteps of Burton and Speke as we embark on a journey through a land of spectacular scenery, unparalleled hospitality and unique wildlife, visiting two of the great lakes of Central Africa. We cross into Tanzania with its notable characteristic of warmth and openness and we are greeted with “Karibu“. This is a country of great natural wealth where vast plains are home to millions of hoofed animals and the predators that stalk them, where the cool highlands are punctuated by the deep crevices of the Great Rift Valley, and where inland lakes glimmer with the reflected shadows of countless water birds. We end this adventure in Malawi, where we find Livingstone‘s “Lake of Stars“, a country with stunning scenery, diverse habitat, and maybe the friendliest people to meet on this continent.
So, Karibu!
Grading: Anyone in good health with a sense of adventure and humour should be able to take part. There is no real physical difficulty involved, and the hikes are in the scope of most; but as in much of Africa, where we go off the beaten track, there will be rough roads, limited facilities, some basic accommodation, and permanent campsites, which may require you to adjust your level of expectations.
NB:
Although it is our
intention to operate this itinerary as printed in the brochure and detailed
below, it may be necessary to make some changes as a result of alterations
to flight/boat/train schedules, climatic conditions, or other operational
factors. As a consequence, the order or location of overnight stops may
vary from those outlined.
Included meals are indicated in the daily itinerary (i.e. BLD - Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner).
Day 1: Join Tour in Lusaka
We are collected at Lusaka International Airport and it is a short drive to our hotel in the outskirts of Lusaka. Lusaka lies at the junction of the main highways to the north, east, south and west, and at an altitude of 1,300 metres above sea level has a year round pleasant climate. The capital covers an area of over seventy square kilometres and is one of the fastest growing cities in Central Africa. This afternoon is free for personal exploration (unescorted) and offers us the chance to visit Cairo Street with all its shops and street stalls and the markets which are a hive of activity, riotous in colour and where the thousands of shanty stalls are filled and cleared every day.
Motel/lodge, 1 night.
Day 2: Kasanka National Park
After breakfast we start our adventure by heading north, through rich farmland on the Great North Road to Kasanka National Park. This peaceful sanctuary, situated on the south western edge of Lake Bangweulu Basin is one of Zambia‘s smallest National Parks. It is only 450 square kilometres, but is so well endowed with rivers, lakes, wetlands, forests, lagoons, meadows and dambos that it supports a wide range of mammals and abundant birds, fish and reptiles. It is surely one of Zambia‘s most picturesque parks and best kept secrets. We undertake a game drive on our way to our camp.
2 nights, Rondavel’s (BD).
Day 3: Kasanka National Park
Kasanka forms part of the Great Bangweulu Basin, which incorporates the vast Bangweulu Lake, a massive wetland area, which lies in a shallow depression in the centre of an ancient crater in the North Zambian plateau. The basin is fed by seventeen principal rivers from a catchment area of 190,000 square kilometres, but is drained by only one river, the Laupula. Today we go for an early morning drive to a special platform hide, eighteen metres high, in a giant Mululu tree with a panoramic view over the Kapani Swamps. We endeavour to spot the rare and elusive swamp-dwelling Sitatunga from here. Together with Kasanka‘s noted birdlife; the mammals; Puku, Waterbuck, Sable Antelope, Elephants, Buffalo, Hartebeest, Sharp’s Grysbok as well as their predators, can be seen on our game drive through grassy plains, “mushitu“ forests, large tracts of Miombe woodland, riverine forest and papyrus swamps. Over 330 bird species have been recorded, including such rarities as Pel‘s Fishing Owl, Pygmy Goose, Ross‘s Loerie and Wattled Crane. If we are lucky we will catch a glimpse of the rare Shoebill Stork. In the afternoon we have the option to canoe, meandering down the exquisitely beautiful Luwombwa River, looking for the rare African Finfoot and Slender Snouted Crocodile, or to undertake an exciting walking safari accompanied by an armed scout (optional).
BLD
Day 4: Livingstone‘s Memorial
This morning we take a pleasant drive to Livingstone‘s Memorial in Chitambo‘s Village. Creatively decorated houses of the Bemba people, surrounded by tall Miombe woodland line the road. The memorial is situated on the spot where David Livingstone drew his last breath. His servants buried his heart under a nearby tree, then wrapped his body and carried it 1,500 km over eleven months to the coast where it was shipped back to England. Shortly after his death an inscription was carved on the Mpundu tree under which he died: Livingstone, May 4, 1873, and the names of his three followers. A cast of this is now preserved at the Livingstone Museum, and the original carving in the museum of the Royal Geographical Society in London. On the way to the spectacular Kundalila Falls, meaning “cooing dove“, we visit a Bemba village to have a glimpse of their way of life. The falls, set amidst great scenic beauty near the lip of the Machinga Escarpment on the Kaombe River, plummets seventy metres (230 feet) into a deep pool where we can swim in safety and solitude. Kundalila is famous for its wild flowers and the rare blue monkey inhabits the surrounding forest. The view from the top of the falls out over the distant Luangwa Valley is breathtaking. We end our day‘s driving by staying overnight at Mpika, one of the frontier towns in the northern province, which can be explored at your leisure (unaccompanied).
Overnight in Rest House (BL)
Day 5: Mbala
Heading further north we pass through rich farmland, changing scenery and rural villages to Mbala, which was known as Abercorn before independence. Mbala played an important role during the First World War because of its proximity to the German East African border and is also the place where German forces surrendered their control of East Africa. In the afternoon we visit the Moto Moto museum, which holds an impressive and well displayed range of cultural artefacts from the tribes of the Northern Province. There are archaeological finds and historical displays of the earliest explorations. We also have the opportunity to mingle with the local people this afternoon as we explore this old colonial town.
Overnight in a lodge (BL).
Day 6: Lake Tanganyika
Today we travel a short distance to Mpulangu, Lake Tanganyika. This vast inland sea was first made known to the European world in the mid 1800‘s by the English explorers Richard Burton and John Speke. They pursued it as the source of the Nile, arriving at its shores in February 1858 only to discover that the Ruzuzi River in the north, which they thought to be the Nile, flowed into and not out of the lake. We explore Mpulungu, Zambia‘s only port, during the morning. It is a small town, which bustles with activity when ships dock having brought goods from Burundi and Tanzania. It lays in a natural bay along the lakeshore, protected by a large island a few hundred metres offshore. It has a fishing village and every evening at sunset a long procession of fishing boats hitches a ride from one of the bigger fishing barges and heads out to the horizon for the evening‘s catch. This afternoon we board MV Liemba, for our lake ulendo (journey) to the north of Lake Tanganyika and Tanzania. The MV Liemba is a large former German warship, converted into a passenger ferry. It was originally built as a cargo vessel. When Germany occupied Tanganyika when the First World War broke out it was converted to a military expedition ship to be used against the British in Northern Rhodesia and the Belgian Congo. It was bombed and sunk by the Belgians in 1916, raised and dragged to Kigoma where it sank again. The British, who had taken control of Tanganyika after the war, raised it again and renovated it into a passenger and cargo vessel. Liemba was the name Livingstone gave to the Africans living in the area when he first reached the lake.
2 nights on board en-route to Kigoma (BL)
Day 7: MV Liemba
Today we continue steaming north to Kigoma visiting various small fishing villages along the way. Lake Tanganyika‘s water laps Tanzania, Burundi, the Congo and Zambia. It is the largest freshwater lake in the world and the second deepest after Lake Baikal in Russia. The lake stretches north to south a distance of 677 km and is 50 km at its widest point. The clear water hosts more than 350 species of fish. This is a journey of a lifetime not to be missed and offers us a spectacular experience of this vast lake in the heart of the continent, with breathtaking sunsets over the Congo and the sheer cliffs of Mahale National Park in the east.
(B)
Day 8: Kigoma
We arrive at Kigoma in the early afternoon after having our last look at one of the ferry stops at a village. When the ferry arrives at a village it is greeted by a floating market selling dried fish and other foodstuffs, while passengers are ferried to and from the shore on rickety fishing boats. We transfer to our hotel next to the lake. The afternoon is at leisure to explore the largest town on Lake Tanganyika, founded in 1915. Kigoma has a cosmopolitan mood. The town itself is small and easy-going, snaking uphill from the lakeshore along a long avenue lined with mango trees, and the surrounding hills are very scenic. We can visit the “Kaiser House“ built in the German colonial era or browse through the busy market. (Afternoon unescorted).
2 nights hotel BL
Day 9: Gombe Streams National Park
After an early breakfast we board our chartered motorboat to embark on one of the greatest adventures in the world: Chimpanzee trekking. Our trip north to Gombe Streams follows close to the lakeshore with spectacular scenery on the landside and the Congo Mountains on the lakeside. As our boat glides through the clear waters of Lake Tanganyika towards the sandy beaches and rugged hills of Gombe Streams National Park, the beauty of this unique place strikes us. Covering only 52 square km, this park is a narrow strip of mountainous country bounded in the east by the crest of the eastern Rift Valley Escarpment and in the west by Lake Tanganyika. In 1960, Jane Goodall began a study of wild chimpanzees here and today it is the longest running study of any wild animal population in the world. We embark on a trek to spot the chimpanzee, which is classified among the great apes, with the gorilla and orang-utan. Our first awareness of the wild chimps may be through hearing their calls “pant-hoot“. We follow trails through beautiful evergreen forest to the Kakombe waterfalls and then follow the stream trail on the lookout for the colobus, red tail and blue monkey’s and even the olive baboons might be feeding on the lakeshore. This park supports a wide variety of birds as well as insects and reptiles and forest mammals: Primates, bush baby, bushbuck, bush pig, porcupine, civet, genet, palm civet, mongoose and chequered elephant shrew. There is an opportunity to use a facemask to observe the fascinating fish while swimming in the lake, which is bilharzia free at Gombe Streams National Park. After an adventurous day we cruise back to Kigoma, while we have a sun downer watching the sun set over the Congo. A National Park’s scout accompanies all walks in Gombe Streams.
(BL)
Day 10: Ujiji.
Today we explore Ujiji said to be one of Africa‘s oldest market villages. It was a 19th century Arab trading post and still shows Swahili influences. This is where Burton and Speke first set foot on Lake Tanganyika’s Tanzanian shore. Livingstone lived here for several months in 1872 and it is where Stanley uttered the immortal phrase “Doctor Livingstone, I presume“. We visit this historic site where there are plaques commemorating both events. We venture down to the lakeshore where we can watch local fisherman and boat builders ply their trade. In the afternoon we return to Kigoma where we board the train to Dodoma.
Overnight train (B)
Day 11: Dodoma.
We travel by train to Dodoma through the heartland of Tanzania. We have a glimpse of the vastness of Africa en-route to the capital of Tanzania. The central region of Tanzania was one of the first to be explored by outsiders when, between 1905 and 1914, Germany constructed the 1,238km-railway line from Dar-es-Salaam to Kigoma. They were not trailblazing but followed a centuries old slave caravan route that ran through Dodoma and Tabora, reaching the lakeshore at Ujiji. Thus we follow in the footsteps of Burton and Speke and Stanley in his search for Livingstone. The route takes us through vast plains and indigenous woodlands. The scenery becomes more lushes the closer we get to Dodoma with indigenous forest, swamp and dense Miombe woodland along the line.
Overnight Dodoma Hotel.
Day 12: Mikumi National Park
After breakfast we travel via Morogoro through Mikumi National Park en-route to Udzungwa National Park. Mikumi National Park lies in a floodplain with high ground on either side. This park hosts a considerable population of antelope and their predators; Masai giraffe, Liechtenstein’s hartebeest, blue wildebeest and Bohor‘s reedbuck. We turn east into the Arc Mountains to Udzungwa Mountains National Park. 2 nights lodge.
(BL)
Day 13: Udzungwa Mountains National Park
The Udzungwa Mountains are part of the eastern Arc Mountains and have been described as the “Galapagos Island of Africa“. It is a forest that has survived due to traditional belief and taboos! This National Park is described as a “Primate National Park“since it is the only park, which harbours ten (10) species of primates of which 4 are endemic. Not only do we find endemic mammals but also find endemic birds notably Udzungwa partridge and the Rufus-winged sunbird. We explore the National Park on foot, escorted by a National Park scout, and trek on forest paths to the Sanje waterfall, which has natural pools where swimming is allowed. The mountains with their blanket of green mantled forest and mist are the core of Udzungwa. There are hundreds of different species of trees, shrubs, climbers and herbs of which around 50 are restricted to this area. Due to the remoteness of the park we will concentrate our exploration of the park to the Mwanihana portion. This area contains the Sanje waterfall and primates such as black and white colobus, red colobus, Sanje mangabey, yellow baboon, Skye’s and vervet monkey. A wide variety of mammals including elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, eland, suni, bush pig has been recorded in the park. A visit to a traditional healer in the local village gives us an insight to taboos and medicinal properties of the plants and herbs found in the park. (Optional)
(BL)
Day 14: Iringa
Today we venture west and follow one of the most scenic routes in Tanzania to our overnight stop in Iringa. Situated on a hill offering great views over the Ruaha Valley, this compact town has an atmospheric old German quarter near the market, while Majumba Street, the main trading road is very colourful and lively. The market is an excellent place to buy local woven rugs and baskets. We have the afternoon to explore the town and mingle with the local people (unescorted).
Overnight hotel (BL)
Day 15: Ruaha National Park
Leaving the high altitude of Iringa behind us we travel to Ruaha National Park through rural landscape and ever changing scenery. We settle into our bandas at Tungamalenga on the fringe of the park and have the afternoon to explore the surrounding local village, see how the villagers live and manage their life, visit a local school, and for the energetic a 10km walk to the Malunde falls.
Note: all excursions optional – a small fee to be paid to a local guide as part of responsible tourism. This is the best opportunity for us to see the rural life on the fringe of the great wilderness of the African bush and the best opportunity to buy Makondo curious.
3 nights bandas (BLD)
Day 16 & 17: Ruaha National Park
We explore the park in the next 2 days through game viewing (we are situated 10m from park boundary). Ruaha is Tanzania‘s second largest National Park, covering an area of 12,950 square kilometres. The greater Ruaha ecosystem covers roughly 26,000 square kilometres and is regarded to be one of the wildest areas anywhere in Tanzania. The fauna and flora of Ruaha is transitional between southern and eastern Africa. A wide variety of habitats are protected within the park, including evergreen forest and swamps, but the dominant vegetation type is brachystegia woodland, followed by broken acacia grassland, dotted with boabab trees. The National Park lies at the southern end of the range of several large mammal species, including lesser kudu, Grant‘s gazelle and striped hyena. It is probably the last accessible part of East Africa where the African hunting dog survives in significant numbers and it harbours a number of mammals which are rare or absent in Northern Tanzania. Other mammals are roan and sable antelope, elephants, buffalo, giraffe, warthog, eland. Most predators are present in large numbers and it is an excellent place to see leopard. Hippo and croc are abundant in the Ruaha River. Over 400 bird species have been recorded. The remoteness of Ruaha is its greatest charm and its very inaccessibility makes it one of the highlights of this adventure. We conduct game drives that last the whole day and we have our lunch break in some remote area under a shady tree in the park.
(2xB, 2xL, 2xD)
Day 18: Isimila Stone-age Site.
We leave this remote wilderness behind and ulendo (journey) to Isimila via Iringa. We explore one of East Africa‘s richest stone-age sites on foot. Stone-age people of the late Acheulian Culture about 60,000 inhabited Isimila years ago at which time the dry riverbed was a shallow lake. We visit the small museum housing a number of their tools including cleavers and hand axes. Also to be seen are fossilised bones and the teeth of the extinct hippopotamus gorgops. We continue to explore the area on foot following another valley where we find a group of striking 10m high sandstone pillars, carved by a river, which dried up centuries ago. We continue our journey through the highland area of Mufindi, known for its tea production, to Mbeya. It is an appealing town, with a skyline dominated by the impressive Mbeya Range of mountains. In the afternoon we can explore the town unescorted.
Overnight hotel (BL)
Day 19: Lake Malawi
We turn south travelling through the tea estates, fringed by spectacular mountain ranges, to Malawi. We cross into Malawi at Songwe and follow the coast to Chitimba where we overnight. Lake Malawi, the second of the great African lakes we explore on this adventure, looks and feels very tropical with broad sweeps of white shimmering sand, scattered with quartz pebbles and fringed with palm trees. The lake occupies one fifth of Malawi‘s total landmass and is the third largest in Africa, stretching 575km in length and 85km at its widest point. The 23,000 square kilometres of this vast inland sea are fed by 14 rivers but drained by only one. The afternoon is spent on the edge of the lake enjoying the calm waters and sheltered beaches. David Livingstone was the first British person to “discover“ Lake Malawi.
Overnight lodge (BLD)
Day 20: Viphya Plateau
This morning our journey continues southwards to Luwawa Forest Reserve, following the course of the North Rukana River in a breathtaking ascent of the Rift Valley Escarpment, which brings us to Mzuzu, the northern capital of Malawi. We have time to explore one of Malawi‘s local markets and we end our day‘s journey by passing through Chikangawa to our lodge situated in beautiful forest surroundings. The afternoon is spent on a nature walk where we might spot some small mammals and primates.
Overnight lodge (BLD)
Day 21: Lilongwe.
After breakfast we drive through rich farmland on the Central African plateau to Lilongwe, the Capital of Malawi. The afternoon we have the opportunity to explore the capital unescorted, visiting the Nature Reserve, and to do last minute shopping at the curio stalls.
Overnight lodge. (BL)
Day 22: LIA
Transfer to airport.
(B)