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Malawi & Zambia: Explorers Africa (EA)

(15 DAYS LAND ONLY)

Updated 15/08/2007

The first Europeans to arrive in Malawi and Zambia were Portuguese explorers who reached the interior from the East Coast. However, the most famous visitor was David Livingstone, whose exploration heralded the arrival of Europeans in a way, which was to change the nature of the region forever. The establishment of missions to promote the spread of Christianity and the abolition of slavery soon followed. We tread in the footsteps of those early pioneers through a land of spectacular scenery, unparalleled hospitality and unique wildlife. Malawi, lying within the tropics at the southern end of the Great Rift Valley, is affectionately referred to as ‘The warm heart of Africa’; not only is the climate warm, but Malawians really are among the friendliest people you could hope to meet.

Anyone who enjoys scenic beauty will find the country richly endowed, from forested reserves, National Parks and broad highlands to the peaceful shores of Lake Malawi. In contrast Eastern Zambia offers the chance to explore one of the best wildlife areas in Africa. Luangwa National Park contains one of the largest concentrations of elephant, as well as supporting a wealth of other species and habitat. This journey, rich in contrast and adventure, is full of unforgettable experiences.

We arrive at our lodge and check in. At an elevation of 1000 metres above sea level, Lilongwe lies on the Central African plateau, to the west of the Great Rift Valley. Officially named as the new capital of Malawi in 1975, this landscaped city is an interesting place to explore. This afternoon is free which offers us the chance to visit the city’s Nature Sanctuary, Capital Hill, or the market area (all optional).

We leave Lilongwe and we travel via Balaka southwards to Liwonde National Park. We visit the market at Liwonde, then cross the barrage (Shire River) where most of the electricity in Malawi is generated. We enter Liwonde National Park which is the prime National Park in Malawi and do some game viewing on our way to the camp. The park includes part of Lake Malombe, the Shire River and the eastern upper Shire Plain. Literally thousands of hippo and crocodile live in the river and there are several hundred elephants in the park, plus a variety of antelope. Black Rhinoceros has been introduced into the Park. The combination of riverine, mopane grassland and mixed bushveld ensures that the birdlife is very varied.

On our second day in the park we undertake an early morning game drive and we might see Bushbuck, Common Waterbuck, Kudu, Elephants, Rhino, Sable Antelope, Warthog and Hippo. The afternoon is spent on a further game activity. There may also be the chance of a boat trip on the Shire River (optional), gliding silently through the reed beds to view jacana, egrets, ibis and kingfisher. Liwonde has something of interest for all who enjoy the complete natural state of the African landscape.

Today we continue in a northern direction towards Lake Malawi. The lake occupies one fifth of Malawi’s total landmass, stretching 575 kilometres in length and 85 kilometres at its widest point. The 23,000 square kilometres of this vast inland sea, is fed by 14 rivers but drained by only one, the Shire. This sluggish river begins its course to the sea at the lake's southern tip, and odd though it may seem, accounts for the dispersal of only one per cent of the lake’s volume. The lake has witnessed bloody massacres between tribes now long disappeared, as well as the horrific Arab slave trade, which terrorised its inhabitants and resulted in a large proportion of them converting to Islam. It was even the scene of the first naval ‘battle’ and British victory of the First World War! The third largest in Africa, Lake Malawi ranks twelfth in size in world terms, and are the fourth deepest. One important feature is the abundance of fish - over 350 endemic species! Senga Bay is essentially a large inlet at the eastern end of the peninsula that juts into the lake from Salima, and provides excellent beaches and crystal-clear water. It’s the perfect place for a sunset boat cruise (optional). The area is a popular destination for water sports, such as water-skiing, snorkelling, or windsurfing and is the perfect retreat for visitors with its sandy beaches, calm waters, rocky coves and a plethora of tropical fish. We have the opportunity of visiting the only chichlids fish farm in Malawi.

We follow the lakeshore northwards towards Chintheche, passing the huge Dwangwa Sugar Estate. Our first stop is Chia Lagoon, a large bay linked to the main lake by a narrow channel. Today this inlet is a popular spot for fishermen, and we can watch local people fish, using large triangular nets on poles. Continuing north, there is opportunity to visit the mission hospital and the old slave market. The afternoon is free to relax on the beach.

We have the entire day to relax on the lakeshore. Lake Malawi’s tranquil waters are fringed by golden shores unsullied by pollution, and dotted with lush palm, mango, avocado and banana trees, making it the embodiment of a tropical paradise. Today we can visit a nearby Tonga village and rural school (both optional), located on the site of a past battle between the Tonga tribe and Ngoni invaders. Alternatively, the lake offers a wealth of water-based activities (all optional) which include windsurfing, horse-riding, snorkelling, scuba-diving, excursions by motor boat, or possibly canoeing in a bwato, one of the traditional dugouts made from a single hollowed-out tree trunk, whose handling requires a delicate sense of balance.

Today we leave the vast expanses of Lake Malawi behind, and journey further north, passing through Mzuzu ‘the Capital of the North’, and the main gateway to the northern region. After visiting a traditional Tembuka village, we head west to Vwaza Marsh Game Reserve. This low-lying reserve consists of a mixture of marsh and woodland, rocky hills, floodplain, the scenic Lake Kazuni and Zara Pool. The area around Lake Kazuni supports a diversity of habitats, which range from marshland, swamp and small lake, to alluvial plain and wooded hillside. This creates an excellent environment for many species of antelope and their predators, as well as supporting elephant, buffalo, hippo and a rich variety of birdlife. This afternoon we have the chance to do some game viewing and familiarise ourselves with some of the reserve’s many species.

Day 8: Vwaza Marsh Game Reserve On our second day in the reserve we undertake an exciting safari per vehicle. This provides us with an excellent opportunity to enjoy the sights, sounds, and silence of the bush at a relaxed pace, and is an experience not to be forgotten! Whilst driving around the lake area we may see waterbuck, eland, roan, sable, hartebeest, zebra, impala and puku. At the lake itself there are many water birds to be seen, while a wide variety of riverine and woodland species are attracted to the vicinity of the Luwewe River. We return to camp to avoid the midday heat, and relax in the shade before heading out again to explore further in the late afternoon.

Today we retrace our steps to Mzuzu and turn south to the lofty expanses of the Viphya Plateau after visiting a rural school, which is sponsored by us by contributing to its development and upkeep. This afternoon we enjoy a nature walk led by our own guide. We walk along the high ridges overlooking the vast expanse of the South Viphya Forest Reserve, Africa's largest man made forest. On our walk we hope to see crested eagles, auger buzzards, Danhams bustard, snake eagles, yellow baboon, vervet monkey and even leopards can be seen crossing the tracks in the early morning mist.

From Viphya Plateau we drive via Kasungu to the Zambian border at Chipata on our way to South Luangwa National Park. The Luangwa valley is one of Africa’s prime wildlife sanctuaries, with concentrations and varieties of game and birdlife that have made it world famous. This is the landscape of the ‘real Africa’, with herds of antelope roaming the plains, predators stalking through the shadows, and primordial flora in every vale. and oxbow lagoons act as natural water holes. The list of animals that frequent the park is endless. Mammals include zebra, buffalo and lion, as well as endemic species such as Thornicroft’s giraffe and Cookson’s wildebeest. The park successfully supports one of the largest concentrations of elephant in Africa and also has an expanding population of leopard. For the next night we stay in our Wilderness Camp set in a beautiful location on the banks of the Luangwa River just outside the national park.

This morning we depart on one of the biggest adventures: a walking safari in the wilderness of South Luangwa. This enables us to get close to the animals, without the confines of a vehicle.

Accompanied by a qualified guide and an armed scout we venture past lagoons, rivereen forest and through mopani woodland, seeing, smelling and touching Africa to our bush camp on the elevated banks of the Luangwa River. After our lunch under huge shady Natal Mahogany trees, we undertake another walking safari along the bank of the slow-moving Luangwa. Tonight while the aroma of our camp meal fills the air, we salute the sun going down over the distant escarpment.

This morning we undertake another walking safari back to our permanent camp next to the Luangwa River. For the next two days we continue to explore this remote wilderness area that covers over 9,000 square kilometres. The park encompasses a wide variety of habitats and the Luangwa River describes a torturous course along the valley floor. Near the river the vegetation is lush and dense, and along its many tributaries riverine forest remains emerald green all year round.

The afternoon we do a game drive in the National Park followed by a morning and afternoon game drive the next day. We may also make a night game drive (optional) to catch a glimpse of the nocturnal world within the park illuminated by spotlight. Viewing game at night allows us to see species that would normally be hidden throughout the day, and may include porcupine, hippo grazing on land and Honey badger. For scenery and sheer variety of animals, South Luangwa is one of the best wildlife parks in Africa. Multitudes of species thrive in this sanctuary, and the size of the national park allows large herds to develop and live in harmony with each other. South Luangwa National Park is one of the world’s great wildernesses and provides the grand finale to this intriguing tour.

This morning we leave the open vistas and staggering beauty of eastern Zambia behind and return to Malawi’s capital, Lilongwe. Our drive takes us across the rich farmland of central Malawi. On arrival in Lilongwe in the early afternoon, there is the chance to do some last minute shopping and further explore this bustling capital.

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